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Flevy Management Insights Q&A
How is the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains affecting Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry?


This article provides a detailed response to: How is the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains affecting Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry? For a comprehensive understanding of Make or Buy, we also include relevant case studies for further reading and links to Make or Buy best practice resources.

TLDR The shift towards sustainable and ethical supply chains is transforming Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry, necessitating a holistic approach that integrates sustainability and ethics into Strategic Planning, Operational Excellence, Risk Management, Performance Management, and Strategy Development.

Reading time: 5 minutes


The shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains represents a significant transformation in the fashion industry, driven by increasing consumer awareness, regulatory pressures, and the intrinsic value alignment of leading organizations. This movement is profoundly influencing Make vs. Buy decisions, compelling executives to reassess their strategic approaches to sourcing, manufacturing, and overall supply chain management. The decision to make (in-house production) or buy (outsourcing) is no longer solely based on cost-efficiency and speed to market but now incorporates sustainability and ethical considerations as core components of strategic planning and risk management.

Impact on Strategic Planning

In the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains, Strategic Planning must evolve to integrate these dimensions into the core of Make vs. Buy analyses. Organizations are now required to conduct a more comprehensive assessment that includes the environmental and social impacts of their sourcing strategies. This includes evaluating suppliers on their labor practices, environmental footprint, and overall commitment to sustainability. The complexity of this evaluation necessitates a deeper, more nuanced understanding of the supply chain, extending beyond traditional metrics of cost, quality, and delivery times.

For instance, a McKinsey report on the fashion industry highlighted that consumers are increasingly favoring brands that demonstrate a commitment to sustainability. This consumer preference shift is prompting fashion industry leaders to prioritize suppliers who adhere to sustainable practices, even if it means higher costs or longer lead times. Consequently, the Make vs. Buy decision-making process now requires a balance between operational efficiency and sustainability objectives, with a clear understanding that long-term brand loyalty and market share may depend on this balance.

Moreover, the integration of sustainability into Strategic Planning for Make vs. Buy decisions also involves a reevaluation of in-house capabilities. Organizations must consider whether they have the necessary skills, technologies, and processes to produce sustainably and ethically in-house or if they should partner with external suppliers who can meet these criteria. This decision-making process is complex and requires organizations to be agile and innovative, constantly adapting to evolving standards and consumer expectations.

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Operational Excellence and Risk Management

Operational Excellence in the fashion industry is being redefined to include sustainability and ethical practices as key performance indicators. This shift impacts Make vs. Buy decisions by elevating the importance of transparent, traceable, and responsible supply chains. Organizations are investing in technologies such as blockchain to enhance traceability and in certifications (e.g., Fair Trade, Organic) to demonstrate compliance with ethical standards. These investments are not just about mitigating risks; they are about creating value through differentiation and building trust with consumers.

Risk Management, in the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains, extends beyond traditional financial and operational risks to include reputational risk. The cost of non-compliance with ethical standards or failure to meet sustainability commitments can be devastating in terms of brand damage and lost consumer trust. As such, the Make vs. Buy decision becomes a strategic choice about which risks an organization is willing to manage in-house and which risks it prefers to share with or transfer to external partners. This decision-making process requires a thorough risk assessment, considering both short-term impacts and long-term strategic goals.

Real-world examples include fashion brands that have shifted to local sourcing and manufacturing to reduce carbon footprints and ensure fair labor practices. These decisions often involve higher upfront costs but are justified by the reduced risk of supply chain disruptions, enhanced brand reputation, and alignment with consumer values. Organizations are finding that such strategic shifts not only contribute to Operational Excellence and Risk Management but also drive innovation and open new markets.

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Performance Management and Strategy Development

Performance Management systems within the fashion industry are being recalibrated to incorporate sustainability and ethical metrics. This recalibration influences Make vs. Buy decisions by setting new standards for evaluating the performance of suppliers and in-house operations. Organizations are developing scorecards that include sustainability achievements, carbon footprint reduction, and social impact alongside traditional metrics like cost, quality, and timeliness. This comprehensive approach to performance management supports informed, strategic decision-making that aligns with organizational values and market demands.

Strategy Development in the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains requires a forward-looking perspective that anticipates regulatory changes, technological advancements, and shifts in consumer behavior. Organizations must be proactive in exploring alternative materials, production methods, and supply chain configurations that can meet these emerging demands. The Make vs. Buy decision is thus not only about the current state but also about positioning the organization for future competitiveness and resilience.

An example of this strategic approach is the adoption of circular economy principles by fashion brands. By choosing to make or buy based on the ability to recycle, reuse, or repurpose materials, organizations are not just complying with sustainability standards but are also innovating in product design and business models. This strategic orientation towards sustainability and ethics in Make vs. Buy decisions is proving to be a source of differentiation and competitive advantage in the increasingly conscientious market.

In conclusion, the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains is fundamentally altering the landscape of Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry. This shift requires a holistic and strategic approach that incorporates sustainability and ethics into the core of business decision-making processes. Organizations that successfully navigate this transformation will not only mitigate risks and enhance their operational excellence but will also position themselves as leaders in the evolving fashion industry.

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Best Practices in Make or Buy

Here are best practices relevant to Make or Buy from the Flevy Marketplace. View all our Make or Buy materials here.

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Explore all of our best practices in: Make or Buy

Make or Buy Case Studies

For a practical understanding of Make or Buy, take a look at these case studies.

Make or Buy Decision Analysis for Agritech Firm in Precision Farming

Scenario: An Agritech firm specializing in precision farming technologies is grappling with the Make or Buy dilemma.

Read Full Case Study

Sustainability Strategy for Boutique Hotel Chain in Eco-Tourism Niche

Scenario: A boutique hotel chain in the eco-tourism sector is navigating the strategic challenge of a "build vs.

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Luxury Brand E-commerce Platform Decision

Scenario: A luxury fashion house is grappling with the decision to develop an in-house e-commerce platform or to leverage an existing third-party solution.

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Agile Procurement Strategy for Healthcare Equipment Distributor

Scenario: A leading healthcare equipment distributor is at a crossroads, facing the strategic challenge of deciding on a make or buy decision for their logistics operations.

Read Full Case Study

Maritime Fleet Procurement Strategy for Shipping Corporation

Scenario: A global shipping company with a diverse fleet is facing challenges in deciding whether to make critical ship components in-house or to buy from external suppliers.

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Electronics Sector Make-or-Buy Decision Analysis

Scenario: The organization is a mid-sized electronics manufacturer specializing in consumer audio equipment.

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Explore all Flevy Management Case Studies

Related Questions

Here are our additional questions you may be interested in.

How does the integration of cloud computing influence the Build vs. Buy decision in IT infrastructure?
Cloud computing shifts the Build vs. Buy decision in IT infrastructure towards considerations of cost, scalability, and innovation, impacting Strategic Planning and Digital Transformation. [Read full explanation]
What role do customer expectations play in shaping the Build vs. Buy strategy in today's market?
Customer expectations significantly influence the Build vs. Buy strategy, guiding organizations in Strategic Planning and Innovation to meet market demands and technological advancements. [Read full explanation]
How can manufacturers use Make vs. Buy decisions to better align with consumer demands for ethical and sustainable products?
Manufacturers can align with consumer demands for ethical and sustainable products through informed Make vs. Buy decisions, focusing on Strategic Sourcing, Supplier Partnerships, and investing in Sustainable Manufacturing Technologies. [Read full explanation]
What strategies should companies employ to ensure their Build vs. Buy decisions align with long-term growth objectives?
Organizations should align Build vs. Buy decisions with Strategic Planning, leveraging Core Competencies, conducting Financial Analysis and Risk Management, and ensuring Innovation and Market Responsiveness to drive long-term growth. [Read full explanation]
How can companies leverage Make vs. Buy decisions to enhance their cybersecurity posture in the face of evolving threats?
Organizations can optimize their cybersecurity posture through strategic Make vs. Buy decisions, considering factors like cost, expertise, strategic goals, and the evolving threat landscape to choose between customized in-house solutions or leveraging external vendors' technologies and expertise. [Read full explanation]
How does the shift towards remote work influence Make vs. Buy decisions in technology infrastructure?
The shift towards remote work has made Make vs. Buy decisions in technology infrastructure more complex, necessitating deeper analysis of cost, scalability, security, compliance, and Strategic Planning to align with organizational goals. [Read full explanation]
What considerations should companies make regarding Make vs. Buy when planning for disaster recovery and business continuity?
Organizations deciding between in-house or outsourced Disaster Recovery and Business Continuity solutions must evaluate Cost, Control, Capability, and Compliance to ensure resilience and minimize downtime. [Read full explanation]
How do emerging trends in consumer behavior impact Make vs. Buy decisions in product development and marketing?
Emerging consumer trends in sustainability, personalization, and digital/omnichannel experiences significantly impact Make vs. Buy decisions, influencing product development and marketing strategies to align with consumer expectations. [Read full explanation]

Source: Executive Q&A: Make or Buy Questions, Flevy Management Insights, 2024


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