Flevy Management Insights Q&A
How is the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains affecting Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry?


This article provides a detailed response to: How is the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains affecting Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry? For a comprehensive understanding of Make or Buy, we also include relevant case studies for further reading and links to Make or Buy best practice resources.

TLDR The shift towards sustainable and ethical supply chains is transforming Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry, necessitating a holistic approach that integrates sustainability and ethics into Strategic Planning, Operational Excellence, Risk Management, Performance Management, and Strategy Development.

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Before we begin, let's review some important management concepts, as they related to this question.

What does Sustainable Supply Chain Management mean?
What does Strategic Planning mean?
What does Operational Excellence mean?
What does Risk Management mean?


The shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains represents a significant transformation in the fashion industry, driven by increasing consumer awareness, regulatory pressures, and the intrinsic value alignment of leading organizations. This movement is profoundly influencing Make vs. Buy decisions, compelling executives to reassess their strategic approaches to sourcing, manufacturing, and overall supply chain management. The decision to make (in-house production) or buy (outsourcing) is no longer solely based on cost-efficiency and speed to market but now incorporates sustainability and ethical considerations as core components of strategic planning and risk management.

Impact on Strategic Planning

In the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains, Strategic Planning must evolve to integrate these dimensions into the core of Make vs. Buy analyses. Organizations are now required to conduct a more comprehensive assessment that includes the environmental and social impacts of their sourcing strategies. This includes evaluating suppliers on their labor practices, environmental footprint, and overall commitment to sustainability. The complexity of this evaluation necessitates a deeper, more nuanced understanding of the supply chain, extending beyond traditional metrics of cost, quality, and delivery times.

For instance, a McKinsey report on the fashion industry highlighted that consumers are increasingly favoring brands that demonstrate a commitment to sustainability. This consumer preference shift is prompting fashion industry leaders to prioritize suppliers who adhere to sustainable practices, even if it means higher costs or longer lead times. Consequently, the Make vs. Buy decision-making process now requires a balance between operational efficiency and sustainability objectives, with a clear understanding that long-term brand loyalty and market share may depend on this balance.

Moreover, the integration of sustainability into Strategic Planning for Make vs. Buy decisions also involves a reevaluation of in-house capabilities. Organizations must consider whether they have the necessary skills, technologies, and processes to produce sustainably and ethically in-house or if they should partner with external suppliers who can meet these criteria. This decision-making process is complex and requires organizations to be agile and innovative, constantly adapting to evolving standards and consumer expectations.

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Operational Excellence and Risk Management

Operational Excellence in the fashion industry is being redefined to include sustainability and ethical practices as key performance indicators. This shift impacts Make vs. Buy decisions by elevating the importance of transparent, traceable, and responsible supply chains. Organizations are investing in technologies such as blockchain to enhance traceability and in certifications (e.g., Fair Trade, Organic) to demonstrate compliance with ethical standards. These investments are not just about mitigating risks; they are about creating value through differentiation and building trust with consumers.

Risk Management, in the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains, extends beyond traditional financial and operational risks to include reputational risk. The cost of non-compliance with ethical standards or failure to meet sustainability commitments can be devastating in terms of brand damage and lost consumer trust. As such, the Make vs. Buy decision becomes a strategic choice about which risks an organization is willing to manage in-house and which risks it prefers to share with or transfer to external partners. This decision-making process requires a thorough risk assessment, considering both short-term impacts and long-term strategic goals.

Real-world examples include fashion brands that have shifted to local sourcing and manufacturing to reduce carbon footprints and ensure fair labor practices. These decisions often involve higher upfront costs but are justified by the reduced risk of supply chain disruptions, enhanced brand reputation, and alignment with consumer values. Organizations are finding that such strategic shifts not only contribute to Operational Excellence and Risk Management but also drive innovation and open new markets.

Performance Management and Strategy Development

Performance Management systems within the fashion industry are being recalibrated to incorporate sustainability and ethical metrics. This recalibration influences Make vs. Buy decisions by setting new standards for evaluating the performance of suppliers and in-house operations. Organizations are developing scorecards that include sustainability achievements, carbon footprint reduction, and social impact alongside traditional metrics like cost, quality, and timeliness. This comprehensive approach to performance management supports informed, strategic decision-making that aligns with organizational values and market demands.

Strategy Development in the context of sustainable and ethical supply chains requires a forward-looking perspective that anticipates regulatory changes, technological advancements, and shifts in consumer behavior. Organizations must be proactive in exploring alternative materials, production methods, and supply chain configurations that can meet these emerging demands. The Make vs. Buy decision is thus not only about the current state but also about positioning the organization for future competitiveness and resilience.

An example of this strategic approach is the adoption of circular economy principles by fashion brands. By choosing to make or buy based on the ability to recycle, reuse, or repurpose materials, organizations are not just complying with sustainability standards but are also innovating in product design and business models. This strategic orientation towards sustainability and ethics in Make vs. Buy decisions is proving to be a source of differentiation and competitive advantage in the increasingly conscientious market.

In conclusion, the shift towards more sustainable and ethical supply chains is fundamentally altering the landscape of Make vs. Buy decisions in the fashion industry. This shift requires a holistic and strategic approach that incorporates sustainability and ethics into the core of business decision-making processes. Organizations that successfully navigate this transformation will not only mitigate risks and enhance their operational excellence but will also position themselves as leaders in the evolving fashion industry.

Best Practices in Make or Buy

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Make or Buy Case Studies

For a practical understanding of Make or Buy, take a look at these case studies.

Telecom Infrastructure Outsourcing Strategy

Scenario: The organization is a regional telecom operator facing increased pressure to modernize its infrastructure while managing costs.

Read Full Case Study

Defense Procurement Strategy for Aerospace Components

Scenario: The organization is a major player in the aerospace defense sector, grappling with the decision to make or buy critical components.

Read Full Case Study

Customer Loyalty Program Development in the Cosmetics Industry

Scenario: The organization is a multinational cosmetics enterprise seeking to enhance its competitive edge by establishing a customer loyalty program.

Read Full Case Study

Make or Buy Decision Analysis for a Global Electronics Manufacturer

Scenario: A global electronics manufacturer is grappling with escalating operational costs and supply chain complexities.

Read Full Case Study

Luxury Brand E-commerce Platform Decision

Scenario: A luxury fashion house is grappling with the decision to develop an in-house e-commerce platform or to leverage an existing third-party solution.

Read Full Case Study

Global Supply Chain Optimization Strategy for Industrial Metals Distributor

Scenario: An established industrial metals distributor is facing a critical "make or buy" decision to improve its global supply chain efficiency.

Read Full Case Study

Explore all Flevy Management Case Studies

Related Questions

Here are our additional questions you may be interested in.

How should companies approach the make-or-buy decision in highly regulated industries differently?
In highly regulated industries, companies must adopt a comprehensive approach to the make-or-buy decision, considering Regulatory Compliance, Risk Management, Strategic Alignment, and long-term implications for sustainable success. [Read full explanation]
What role does corporate social responsibility (CSR) play in the Build vs. Buy decision-making process?
Integrating Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) into Strategic Planning and Operational Excellence influences the Build vs. Buy decision, enhancing brand reputation, sustainability, and market competitiveness. [Read full explanation]
What are the key indicators that suggest a company should pivot from a "Buy" to a "Build" strategy, or vice versa, in response to market changes?
Discover when to pivot from a Buy to a Build strategy (or vice versa) by evaluating Cost, Time to Market, Core Competencies, and Strategic Fit for competitive advantage. [Read full explanation]
What is a make or buy analysis?
A make or buy analysis is a strategic framework for deciding whether to produce a product in-house or purchase it from an external supplier, considering cost, quality, and risk. [Read full explanation]
What impact do global supply chain disruptions have on the make-or-buy decision-making process?
Global supply chain disruptions significantly impact the make-or-buy decision-making process, emphasizing Risk Management, Strategic Alignment, Operational Excellence, and the need for agility, resilience, and innovation in sourcing strategies. [Read full explanation]
How is the rise of artificial intelligence and automation shaping the make-or-buy decision landscape?
The rise of AI and automation is transforming the make-or-buy decision process, impacting Cost, Operational Excellence, Innovation, and Competitive Strategy, necessitating a nuanced Strategic Planning approach. [Read full explanation]

Source: Executive Q&A: Make or Buy Questions, Flevy Management Insights, 2024


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